My stylus broke. Here’s my “you told me so” to @aBundleOfFerrets, @huginn, @optissima, and the creator themself, @the16bitgamer.
You told me so! I’ll print it horizontally and report back o7
It didn’t break, it just got shorter.
It just like me fr 🥺
Here’s my results:
From top to bottom in pictures:
- 45 degrees with organic supports on entire bottom shaft (not in second image)
- Horizontal with organic supports on entire bottom shaft
- Vertical with organic supports on bottom end bit and a few spots on the shaft near the bottom
Here’s my thoughts on them:
The 45 degree one was really poor quality on the bottom… and the back part snapped when I was trying to remove supports. It likely would’ve been a bit stronger printing with taller layers, but the bottom edge seems tricky to support regardless.
The horizontal one turned out well. The bottom side has a rough finish from where the supports connected, but I think being more picky about painting on supports and giving that side a quick shave after printing would fix. The tip is still pretty smooth, to my surprise! Also, this printed twice as quick as the vertical one, since I didn’t have to slow any movements. I can’t break this one even if I try— it’s super strong, the bridge included. Just bends. That said, the nub on this one is more of a nub than a bump, a bit sharper. Between that and the surface on the bottom, it doesn’t fit in my 3ds without doing any shaving or sanding. However, the “tail” part, which shows in the 3ds, is smoothest off-the-bed in this orientation.
Lastly, I printed another vertical one because I wanted to figure out why the bridge at the bottom wasn’t complete in the sliced model:
My solution was reducing the “minimum perimeter width” for the Arachne generator down to 50% (of the nozzle diameter) from 85%. Anyways, this print has a smoother, shinier finish along the shaft and tip. On this print, the nub near the bottom is more of a gradual bump compared to the horizontal one. With this print, though, as the height increases, you can see a bit of wobble and there is a Z-seam running up the shaft. Also, I don’t trust bending this stylus very much, especially the bridge part, since that’s what broke first last time. Seems sturdier this time with the perimeter change, but only a bit. And finally, the “tail” is the roughest here, since it’s the part that was connected to the raft. It’s probably worth sanding it down to get a good finish there.
Here’s the model if you’d like to print one for yourself: https://www.printables.com/model/158481-new-nintendo-3ds-stylus
Anyways, I’ve learned a lot in this process. And now I can play Ace Attorney with a stylus again!!
Lucky it didn’t get stuck!
Heheh, it kinda did 😅 I had to take off the back cover (which, luckily, is removable on this model) to get it out.
It was a valiant effort and you had fun tweaking your slice.
True, and that’s the most important part. I learned a lot today, too, like how you can’t use organic supports with variable layer height (which is a huge bummer!) and how to add connectors to a split part in prusa.
Lmao looking forward to the update!
Hate how very small the styluses for the new 3ds and new 3ds XL are. Even the XL model is still WAY too small. I just use my s pen from my tablet. Also makes more satisfying noises when tapping.
What are your thoughts about the extending stylus for the original model 3ds? They weren’t particularly long, but it’s something up on the plain plastic ones.
I absolutely would prefer these ones. If only there was some way to pack one of these into the new 3ds (in my case XL)
