Part of trying the get my dishwasher to drain https://piefed.ca/c/diy@slrpnk.net/p/894317/help-fixing-my-dishwasher-it-won-t-drain-and-is-stop-on-sanitize-mode

I have removed to drain pump, solenoid, water heater.

The drain pump white part spins with no obstruction at all.

With a multimeter:

My solenoid is about to get 984 OHMs resistance.

I’m not sure how to check my drain pump. I don’t see any connector end. Closest thing are these 6 metal spike thing pointed out on the motherboard.

I don’t see any visible blockage.

I’m not sure if I need to check the voltage as well. And I’m not sure if i need the dishwasher running with water to test. Problem is still stuff is located at the bottom of the dishwasher. If I wanted to check the voltage with running water.

  • dudesss@piefed.caOPEnglish
    2·
    3 days ago

    I’m not sure where to apply my multimeter to test the coils

    Closest thing I can find in this end sticking end which connects to the electronics.

    Edit: Testing to the right metal parts of that connector gave me Ohms 128.8

    • AbidingOhmsLaw@lemmy.mlEnglish
      2·
      3 days ago

      Looks like there are 3 coils wired in a Y formation, so the silver rectangles are where the electrical contact is made, let’s call them 1,2, and 3. If you measure across any 2 points you should get the same ( or close) ohm reading. In this set up you are measuring across 2 of the coils so measuring 1 & 2 then 1 & 3 then 2 & 3 should all be simalar and should not read 0 or infinity.

          • dudesss@piefed.caOPEnglish
            1·
            2 days ago

            Could this have to do with the water to filling up anymore since I took the dishwasher apart to identify the drainage issue?

            • AbidingOhmsLaw@lemmy.mlEnglish
              3·
              2 days ago

              It’s possible that the controller is identifying an open coil and not filling, you should get an error code right away if so. it’s also likely that you did not get a connector seated correctly when re-assembling or that the float switch is stuck from having it tippled over. Check all the connections and after setting it back up right, check that that the float switch can move up and down freely.

              • dudesss@piefed.caOPEnglish
                3·
                2 days ago

                Thanks for all your help! I will try to replace the drain pump soon.

                How can I repay you?

                • AbidingOhmsLaw@lemmy.mlEnglish
                  2·
                  2 days ago

                  By helping someone else out with a subject you know about when there is an opertunity. i.e. pay it forward. To quote Bill & Ted “Be excellent to each other”

        • iocase@lemmy.zip
          3·
          3 days ago

          Blown pump then if you can’t read anything on those pairs. They’re literally physical coils that should always pass current no matter what, and all of the smarts happens inside the control board for making the 215Hz @ 55V & 3A to feed it.