• einfach_orangensaft@feddit.de
    61·
    9 months ago

    thats how i feel when i keep infodumping about phases array radar and solid state lidar using phase modulation for beam steering

      • shneancy@lemmy.world
        49·
        9 months ago

        so you know photography right, doing it in your phone is easy but it pales in comparison to professional quality, and it’s mostly not because of the device, for your photo-taking machine to bring meaningful difference you need a certain skill level.

        Here’s a few tips how to improve dramatically even with just your phone! Manual is great and all but whatever algorithm your phone uses will always give you an ok photo, and you want to take both good and shit photos! Variety is the spice of life after all

        • turn on the 3x3 grid on your camera screen. Then try to allign people’s eyes, faces etc with the top line horizontal in whatever orientation you use. Objects of interest go along them as well, or even in the bits where they cross. Landscapes look best when you get the horizion running the bottom horizontal line. For more information check out rules of composition

        now photography is all about light, without it there would be no photo after all. Here’s the 3 key setting that are fun to mess with:

        • go to “more modes” or similarly named menu in your camera. Select pro, here a few fun setting will appear

        • ISO controls brightness and grain, the bigger ISO the brighter the photo but the more grainy too

        • shutter speed control the lenght of exposure to light your photo gets, the longer shutter speed the brighter the photo but the steadier your hands need to be to compensate (with a very long shutter speed you can also take those fun light drawing photos, but that often needs a tripod or some sort of steady spot for your phone)

        • f stop, in phones you get maybe one or two options for that but this controls the depth of field and, you guessed it, brightness. The lower the number the more open your lens is and the more light flows in, but your depth of field gets smaller (blurry background)

        most of photography is learning how to balance those 3 settings! All of them have their use, a sports photographer will use much different settings than a studio portait photographer.

        though perhaps the most important rule of photography (and all of art) is that there are no rules, just guidelines, when hearing about a “rule” your first thought should be to see what happens when you break it, so then you can understand why it’s a “rule” and perhaps even think of ways to break it with intent so the critics of the world can go “ahhh how clever” at your work :D

        I’m not a girl nor autistic (though adhd) but I hope this brings you some fun :3

            • Miss Brainfarts@lemmy.blahaj.zone
              13·
              9 months ago

              So basically, a lens captures a large area of light and projects it onto a small sensor.
              When you turn the lens around, it captures a very small area the size of the sensor it’s supposed to be used with, and projects an image into the camera that is way too large, resulting in what you see being a severe crop.

              Which means, the shorter the focal lenght (and the further away the lens is from the camera, for example using bellows), the more „magnification“ you get out of this crop.

              Now, this means three things:

              1. You lose a fuck-ton of light, and since you’re required to close the aperture by a lot to get any kind of usable depth of field in such a configuration, you will sometimes not be able to see what the hell you’re even doing, because it’s so dark.
                This is manageable with a 50mm lens, but obviously gets worse the more you crop.

              2. Since you’re using old manual lenses, have fun with capturing a busy insect with all the right settings before it buggers off. Using continuous shooting and a flash that can keep up with it is invaluable.

              3. And lastly, you can’t even use the focus ring anymore if you mount a lens backwards. Your focus distance is now fixed, and equivalent to the flange focal lenght the lens was built for.
                This means your only way of getting the subject in focus is to move the whole camera back and forth, which gets increasingly difficult the higher your magnification, since the depth of field is so incredibly thin, even more so if you keep the lens wide open to see what you’re even doing.

              But it’s fun, and so much cheaper than dedicated macro lenses :D